Here are some items of equipment (devices) that have been useful in my struggle with
sensitivity to mold. These items will be discussed in approximately their order of importance to me.
Computer and Internet Access
The first thing, upon realizing my problem was likely mold, was to get on the internet and look for
some explanations and possible help. This remains my most important ally, which is used daily to learn more
about others' experiences, about medical research into effects of biotoxins, and a multitude of other important
subjects.
My doctor was of very little help initially in combating the effects of my mold allergy, other than to assure me that my
immune system's white blood cell count was normal, and that all other measurements in my blood test looked fine.
This was of high, immediate concern to me. He explained that there are many, many different versions of
mold, and that each individual person has a different reaction to mold. He basically said what I had was
'just' an allergy, not really dangerous from a disease standpoint, and that I was 'on my own'
in the treatment of this allergy development. So, I turned to the internet.
Particle Filter
My first puchase of equipment, based on my internet searches, was for a portable machine to filter out
from the air the mold spores which were causing my allergic reaction. This machine arrived within a few days,
and worked so well that I ordered a second machine, identical to the first. Three years later, these
filters are still my primary defense against accumulations of mold spores in my living spaces. One of them is
running most of the time I am in the trailer during the winter. In summer, they are much less used.
The specific machines I bought were manufactured by Alen, model A350, which primarily use a physical filter
and a fan to circulate and to clean the air of particles less than .3 microns in size. This is the only particle
filtering system I have used, so do not know if they are the best, but I have been well satisfied.
They just run, and run, and run, and need replacement filters maybe once a year. No other maintenance
is needed. As I recall, these cost about $400 (about 2011) for each of these machines.
HEPA Vacuum Cleaner
This is probably the 2nd most important mold-controlling piece of equipment to me. My particle filter machines
remove spores and other particles from the air. My HEPA vacuum cleaner removes spores and other particles
from surfaces; primarily hard surfaces, most commonly floors. There is almost universal agreement
among advisors and mold sufferers that a person needs a HEPA-standard vacuum cleaner. Also, one needs to
remember to use it regularly, and not wait until suffering from an (often predictable) mold attack.
My HEPA vacuum cleaner is a fairly small, easily portable unit manufactured by Hoover, model #UH70400.
It cost about $145. I am very happy with it. It is easy to use, seems to be well-made, and is easy to clean.
Someone had their 'thinking cap' on when they designed this machine.
My second purchase, ; done shortly after my intial purchase of a filter (and before a HEPA vacuum cleaner),
was for a device to measure the number of particles in the air. My choice was a Dylos laser-based 'air quality
monitor', model dc1100. This device (using a/c current and transformer) continually monitors the air
and reports on a small digital screen both the number of small and large particles per cubic meter of air. Small
particles are detected from .3 micron to 1.0 micron, and particles above 1.0 micron are called large particles.
There is no differentiation between mold spores and dust particles or dead body cells, or other physical particles.
One has to guess at that differentiation. There is no detection by this machine of the presence of VOC's and other
chemicals in the air.
But this meter, used in conjunction with the air filter, tells you if the filter is cleaning your air,
and how much difference it is making. I have been amazed at how contaminated the air can be without one realizing it,
and how clean (comparitively) the air can become via a simple filtering process. Using a meter in combination
with a filter will soon encourage a person to get rid of carpeting, and all other forms of dust-storing materials in
the living quarters (particularly the sleeping area).
Additionally, such a meter can be used to detect actively growing (and supposedly producing spores) by placing
the meter in the 'area in question', and leaving that area alone for a while. If spores are being produced,
the meter will detect this and display the count of increased particles in the air. This capability can be very
helpful, and is about the only situation where we can use something other than our own bodies to detect the presence of mold.
Electric Fan
I have acquired two portable 3-speed rotary electric fans, which have proven to be highly useful in quickly clearing
fouled air (too many mold spores and mycotoxins) from different areas in my trailer house. I have
gradually divided my trailer's living area into spaces separated by additional walls and doors, to both make
it easier to heat and cool these areas, and also to limit exposure to mold. A fouled area can be fairly
quickly cleaned adequately by use of both fans, often carrying one around and blowing air from walls,
ceiling, corners, and other areas where air tends to stagnate, but can still harbor airborne spores
and other particles. Something a fan can do that my particle filters cannot do is to remove chemical odors,
mycotoxins, VOC's, and other forms of aerosols from a living area. From time to time, this has
been very important for me.
My 2 fans (both the same model, made by Honeywell) each have about a 7" fan blade (3 blades),
have a handle for carrying them around (while they are running), have 3 speeds, and a base so they are
stable when set down. They cost about $35 each.
My experience has been that when one is attacked by mold, one often doesn't know what the offending item is
(producing the spores), and one has to keep eliminating items until finding success. This is very
time-consuming, fraught with failure, confusing, disheartening, and hard on one's health and well-being.
To help with this situation, I have constucted a special sleeping compartment in my bedroom, which
gradually has taken on the concept of a 'clean room'. When one has a mold attack in this area, and
can't immediately guess the source, one can 'clean everything out', clear down to the basic 'clean
room' if necessary.
But, this still leaves the air which is fouled with airborne spores, mycotoxins, VOC's, and other
aerosol offenders. So the 'foot' end of this sleeping compartment now has an outside window
installed, and one of my fans can be quickly set to exhaust air from the compartment, sucking fresh,
clean air in through a plywood hinged door at the head of this compartment. The sleeping compartment
can thus be liveable and sleepable again in about 15 minutes, thanks partially to the portable fan.
Some time after my intial mold event, the central heating system (natural gas) gave up
(during the winter). I turned to my portable electric heaters to heat, and subsequently thought
that my running was going better. The fact that a new replacement heating system would cost about $4,000
(which I didn't have) encouraged my decision to stay with portable electric heaters. It is now
fairly clear that central heating systems are commonly a villain in hosting mold colonies in different
parts of the system, ; and then distributing the mold spores, mycotoxins, and VOC's to
different parts of the living area.
So, as said previously, I have divided my trailer house into spaces that are smaller than normal,
and that can be heated with portable electric devices. It is possible that small gas-powered heaters
can be used also. I have not done that so far.
I have a multitude of infrared 'heat bulb' (250 watt, red lens) units hung in different specific areas
that can be turned on or plugged in to provide or to assist local heating. These units provide instant heat
(tho not too much) since they warm the item they shine on, rather than the air in between.
My portable electric heaters are 120 volt, thermostatically controlled, with 2 different (high or low)
wattage settings; 1500 watt on high. Mine are made by Pelonis and they cost about $35 each.
I live 90 miles north of Sacramento CA, and we have winters which get down to the mid-20's F. My 10' x 55'
older trailer house heated with the above electrical heating units is often uncomfortable in the winter, but livable.
Small 'Barrel Fan'
Two small 'Barrel' fans (the barrel is about 3" x 7") are used in my special sleeping compartment
to control air flow. They are mounted on each side of the 'head' portion of the compartment,
and are individually controlled. Each has 2 speeds, and move only a small quantity of air. One fan
blows air across my head/face to keep spores and various chemicals or mycotoxins from accumulating there. This
fan is used only occasionally, as needed. The other fan typically runs on low speed all of the time I am
in the sleeping compartment. It provides for air movement through the compartment, ensuring adequate oxygen
is available.
A 'Barrel' fan moves air by rotating a horizontal cylinder (or barrel), with air being sucked
in on one side of the device, and blown out the other. Both of my 'Barrel' fans are made by Lasko,
model 4006, and are 120 volt. They work fine and cost about $35 each.
My microscope was quite important to me during the last year; less so now that I understand a little better
what I am facing, and feel better about my health and my chances against Mr. Mold.
I purchased what is called a 'hand-held' microscope, which can be held in one's hand and used to inspect
different things, including inside your ear. It also can be held in a stand and objects like fabrics
brought to the scope for inspection. At the time it was most helpful to me, I was using different types
of fabric as 'bib's on the head end of sleeping bags, to prevent mold from growing there and then
releasing spores for inhalation through my nose.
Along with learning how to use the microscope productively, I found a fabric (for use as a bib)
which was pretty good at resisting mold growth. It is called a 'laminate', and consists of vinyl on
one side, and polyester backing on the other; laminated together. The fabric is white on both sides,
which is an almost mandatory color for detecting the presence of mold (or bacteria, as I discovered) with
the naked eye. By observing the same spot on fabric with the microscope daily, or at least periodically,
one can watch the growth of mold or bacteria. If one had the patience, he/she could tell at what point mold
growth resulted in spore production. My experience has been that I don't have that much patience or willingness to
be a guinea pig in mold tests any more than necessary. I generally try to learn what is necessary, then
make the changes that seem best, and move on.
I have taken quite a few pictures with the microscope, and have learned to give each stored picture/image a file
name descriptive enough that one can look at a file name and understand what it represents.
My hand-held microscope is called a 'Handheld USB Digital Endoscopee/Microscope', model 'eheV1-USBplus'.
It was purchased through Amazon, where I believe a video (or a link to a video) is offered as part of
one person's review of the product. This was very helpful in deciding to use this device.
The microscope is pretty simple, and sends the observed information through a cable connected to one's
computer (via a standard USB port) so the display can be seen on the computer monitor. A
'picture' can be taken and stored (as a 'bitmap' image) on the computer hard drive
for latter use.
This microscope helped me come to a better understanding of what the mold looked like that was
causing my problems, and made me feel like I could better deal with the mold. Else, one can't
see, and can't understand the enemy. It turns out that the mold that has given me fits is just barely
large enough to be detected by the naked eye on white materials. With the microscope capable of about
150X magnification, one can see the hyphae (individual segments of the mold colony) quite
plainly. All of this, is however, quite time-consuming. But it seems one doesn't
really have a choice. A person has to come to grips with this mold, or effectively lose one's life.
My instrument for measuring both temperature and relative humidity (a hygro-thermometer) was purchased
to be used in my sleeping compartment, since I particularly wanted a dependable reading of humidity.
Cheap instruments don't seem to give dependable measures of humidity, and this measure is important to
know since mold must have a certain level of moisture to be able to grow. There is still disagreement about
how much moisture is needed for mold growth for various versions of mold, and it may vary with other factors,
like temperature, so there is still guess-work involved on our end, but I like to know dependably what
the moisture level is.
The hygrometer I purchased is called a 'Big Digit Hygro-Thermometer', manufactured by EXTECH Instruments,
model 445715. It has an external, short 'wand' for sensing both moisture and temperature, but is very
portable, small, and battery-operated. Very handy, and I use it throughout the trailer primarily
to measure the level of humidity in different rooms since I have become more concerned about moisture level.
This, of course, varies with our weather. This instrument cost about $45; I have been very
happy with it.
Stop-Watch
I like to measure things whenever possible, to avoid the natural effects of fear and hope. For about 35
years, I have run regularly to try to keep in shape, and have tried to maintain this habit throughout my
mold ordeal, even though it has been reduced to a combination walk/run. I use measures of distances run,
and record my times for reaching certain markers by using a stop-watch. This pushes me to try to do better each
time out.
My hand-held stop-watch is manufactured by Seiko, model #W073-4000, and cost about $40 as I recall. I can
record up to 10 'split-times' on the run and recall and record those times any time after I get back from
the run. This is a good instrument.
Dehumidifier
Until this winter (2014-15) I had no dehumidifiers in my trailer. Late this fall, we had
an onset of quite wet weather, during which my trailer had some water leaks in several spots, and
some consequent mold growth which I felt as 'heavyness' in my chest, and then some consequent
coughing. This event raised my awareness of the importance of watching humidity levels in different parts
of my abode, and trying to prevent the accumulation of mold in my various clothes items, as well as
in my trailer walls, etc. Consequently, I ended up purchasing 3 portable dehumidifiers for use
in different rooms in the trailer. One dehumidifier is used only in my sleeping compartment, and another
only in a spare bedroom which serves as a 'change-room' and holds all my normal wearables,
including my workout clothes. The 3rd dehumidifier serves both the office space and the kitchen, being
moved back and forth as needed.
The 3 dehumidifiers are all identical. They are manufactured by General Electric, are '30 pint'
units (meaning they can remove 30 pints of water from the air daily), and are portable (on rollers).
They have a removable tray to hold water, and have a substitute garden hose connection for a permanent water
disposal setup. The units shut off if the water tray fills up. The model number of this unit is
ADEL30LRQ2. Each cost about $165. I do not know at this point how much these units have helped in
reducing my mold exposure.
My nasal mask is my most recent equpment purchase. I am still learning how to use it, and working
on a home-made device to force-feed the air to it. For me this mask is partly for emergency use
(e.g. can't seem to stop a mold attack for some reason), and partly to be used in other certain situations,
such as travel (away from my special sleeping compartment). My thought is that if it is used regularly,
I will not panic in using it should an emergency situation arise. I do have claustrophobia problems, and
can barely wear a full respirator when I am working (say painting vehicle parts).
The nasal mask that I purchased is manufactured by ResMed, is an 'AirFit P10', and is known as a
'Nasal Pillows System' type of mask. It cost about $100. This type of mask is apparently the least
offensive/intrusive air supply device available. It consists of a small plastic unit containing nasal
'pillows' which deliver air to one's nostrils (no valves), a headband, and a short (2')
fixed air tube to connect to an air supply.
My intended normal use for this device is to wear it:
- after each workout, without requiring me to change clothes, while lying down (and perhaps
napping) for about 10 - 20 minutes
- catching a short nap after lunch without requiring a change of clothes
- for use on trips away from my sleeping compartment, upon which I have become quite dependent for my nightly
sleep. These trips include:
- staying in a motel. I am not sure mold attacks can be prevented in a motel while
sleeping a full night, even in my own sleeping bag with bibs
- sleeping at night on an annual fishing trip. Have discontinued sleeping in my
fishing partner's RV for fear of contaminating it with mold spores. Will now
try to set up a tent arrangement for just myself, using the air mask as needed
